Decent weather permitted us to set sail, or at least motor, early in the morning on our way to destinations in the Markermeer. We headed toward Marken, an island peninsula extending into the Markermeer at 8am joined by Oswald and Erwin Lindeijer, a spatial planner and ecologist working for Almere. We discussed the Ijsselmeer/Markermeer ecologies and politics all morning as we cruised through the rain and fog, amazed by Erwin’s vast knowledge of planning and politics in Almere.
In Marken, we were impressed by the quaint scale of the traditional houses and canals as well as the picturesque beauty of a way of life once born of the sea but now wholly dependent upon tourism. We were shooed away from the yards of inhabitants, no doubt continually annoyed by a constant stream of tourist like ourselves intent on invading their quiet lives.
Back aboard the Merlijn we had lunch and again pressed Erwin for a clear explanation of water management, climate change and politics in the new towns. He obliged us with his time and expertise – we are forever thankful.
We arrived at Enkhuizen around 4:30pm and made our way to the Zuiderzee Museum. Enough time for a drizzly walk in the rain admiring the black spotted sheep and the collection of traditional homes collected in an outdoor museum. Walking back to the harbor we were astounded by the Vermeeresque setting of late day sun on the still wet streets of this small city of the Golden age. The famous expanse of Dutch sky spread far above us as each house and boat and tree held a spec of light in the closing hours of the day. Needless to say it was a well-earned break from the intense work demands of the boat.
We will cross the Houtribdijk in he morning en route to Almere for a tour of the Oostvaardersplassen, one of Europe’s most significant habitat preserves.
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